Diane von Furstenberg

Who? In 1975, Newsweek magazine labeled Diane von Furstenberg 'the most marketable woman since Coco Chanel'.

Style and design? Diane von Furstenberg originated the wrap dress. Jersey fabric and geometric prints typify this style of dress. Usually long sleeved, it consists of a fitted top and a skirt that wraps around the body that is tied at the waist. When it first launched in 1975, it sold 5 million in the year alone.

Karl Lagerfeld

Who? In 1983 Karl Lagerfeld moved from the fashion house Chloe to Chanel, where he was appointed head designer and director. Lagerfeld successfully turned around the iconic French label's image, which at the time was still revered but archaic. As well as designing for Chanel, Lagerfeld launched his own label in 1984. 

Style and design? Lagerfeld kept ethos of Coco Chanel but successfully injected much needed contemporary influences. The classic Chanel suit was introduced with a mini skirt - exposing the knee was something that Coco Chanel was famously opposed to - the pearl stands were revitalized with the addition of the double "C" logo and the quilted 2.55 bag - now adapted to appeal to the younger generation - took on a must have status. Lagerfeld has managed to turn Chanel into one of fashion's leading contemporary houses. 

Jean Paul Gaultier

Who? Jean Paul Gaultier is known as the original 'enfant terrible' of fashion. Gaultier started his career working for Pierre Cardin and Jean Patou, however he rejected these finesse of haute couture learnt at these revered houses placing it with a raw edged design sensibility that is less French and more likened to London street style. 

Style and design? Happily dismantling fashion conventions, he was the first to introduce underwear as outerwear - later adapted his famous coned corsets for Madonna's 1990 blonde ambition world tour - and in 1988 created a skirt for men.

Gianni Versace

Who? Gianni Versace was one of the most important designers of the eighties. His apprenticeship began under the direction of his mother who was a couturier. He studied architecture before moving to Milan at the age of twenty five to work in fashion. in 1972 his work caught the eye of Genny and Callaghan who both headhunted him to design for their individual companies. Though Versace showed his first collection in March 1978, it wasn't until his 1982 collection that he was catapulted to the forefront of the fashion press.  

Style and design? Guilt, gold and glamour. These three words could sum up the house of Versace. His unashamedly flamboyant sexy dresses exuded couture-like craftsmanship qualities, but paradoxically Versace himself said they were initially inspired by prostitutes; the notoriously skimpy, acid coloured garb that brought an almost indecent amount of attention to the contours of a woman's body. Another key Versace emblem is the signature Medusa head, as well as a colourful 'working girl' power suits with guilt buttons. The designer is heralding the 'Supermodel' phenomenon, which created a hierarchical system in fashion by paying Naomi, Linda, Christy, Tatjana, and Cindy up to 30 thousand pounds to appear in his shows. Though he was tragically shot dead in 1997, his legacy is carried on through his sister Donatella who now leads up the house of Versace. 

James Galanos

Who? James Galanos was the first designer to use the horseshoe neckline on his designs. 

Style and design? Draped evening dresses with billowing sleeves, sheath dresses worn under chiffon coats and low backed wool gowns. Galanos displayed couture-like craftsmanship, using opulent fabrics such as velvets, brocades, and hand-painted silks. 

Hubert de Givenchy

Who? Hubert de Givenchy gained a wealth of experience by apprenticing under Jacques Fath, Lucien Lelong and Elsa Schiaparelli, in having Cristobal Balenciaga as his - very influential - mentor. He dressed Audrey Hepburn over a forty year period.

Style and design? His first collection was named after Bettina Graziani, Paris's top model at the time and who also doubled up as his press agent. This successful line produced the famous 'Bettina Blouse', which was a peasant-shaped blouse with an open neck and exaggerated ruffles on the sleeves. This was made out of men's shirting fabric. The Sack dress - heavily inspired by Balenciaga - and other simplistic but elegant styles were also typical of Givenchy.

Guy Laroche 

Who? Guy Laroche was a milliner before he apprenticed under courtier Jean Desses.

Style and design? Relaunched the use of striking colours, such as coral and turquoise. Designed pleated coats, empire-line dresses and tailored pantsuits.

Christian Dior

Who? Christian Dior was the most influential designer of the fifties.

Style and design? His famously controversial 1947 'New Look' collection - a much needed return to glamour - championed excess and opulence at a time of post-war austerity and was therefore received with both disapproval and yearning. Inspired by the nostalgia of the nineteenth-century woman, the 'New Look' was defined by generous use of luxury fabrics, sloping shoulders, and wasp-waisted silhouette with widely flared skirts. Yves Saint Laurent, who left to set up his own label after three years designed eight collections for the house after Dior's death in 1957.

Valentina

Who? Known widely by her first name only, Russian-born Valentina Sanina Schlee set up her New York-based design house in 1925.

Style and design? Oriental influences - mandarin style suits and dresses worn with obis. Her Grecian-inspired dresses were also hugely popular especially after being worn by the actress Katherine Hepburn in the film The Philadelphia Story. 

Prada

Prada was founded by Mario Prada and his brother in 1913 when they opened a luxurious boutique in Milan. The shop included imported silver, Austrian crystal, and exquisite leather handbags and luggage. The tradition of high-quality distinctive goods is continued today.

Armani

Giorgio Armani  abandoned the study of medicine to become a photographer. He initially worked as a window dresser for the Italian department store La Rinascente, and later became a designer under Nino Cerruti. He established his own company in 1974, and gained fame and success with his streamlined tailoring, imaginative designs, and sophisticated choice of materials for many Hollywood personalities. Some of his alluring couture creations use animal prints, satin, velvet, and sparkling Swarovski crystals which shimmer with every movement of the body.

Gucci

Guccio Gucci  was the son of an Italian leather craftsman. He learned to appreciate international culture through his travels to Paris and London. When he returned to Italy in 1920, he opened his first Gucci shop in Florence where he featured finely crafted equestrian accessories. Guccio's sons expanded the firm by opening new shops in Rome, Milan, and New York.

Fendi

In 1925, Edoardo Fendi and Adele Casagrande established a leather and fur shop in Rome that was enormously successful. In 1965, the inverted FF logo was introduced and became an international status symbol.

Dolce & Gabbana

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana met while working as assistants in a studio in Milan. In 1985, they took part in a fashion show featuring "New Talent", and the following year, they presented their first independent women's ready-to-wear show. Dolce and Gabbana have expanded their line to include menswear and fragrances in shops across the world. D&G designs feature richly colored fabrics, outrageous Mediterranean style, extravagantly embroidered coats, gangster boss pinstripe suits, and underwear-as-outerwear. 

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